We are delighted to share with you the memorable experiences of Stefania, an Italian guide based in Lyon, during her stay in Japan. Part one.
Imagine stepping off the plane after 17-hour long flight and finding yourself in the middle of thousands of people walking around silently and in order. I arrived in Tokyo on a quiet Saturday afternoon and I settled down in Arakawa, my temporary home for this brief stay. It’s a quiet neighborhood, although just a stone’s throw away from Asakusa. It’s the ideal starting point for my journey.
For my first day, I decided to venture to the Higashi Gyoen, Imperial Palace. In accordance with etiquette, I went to pay my tribute to the Emperor. While the palace itself is not open to the public, it’s surrounded by expansive grounds. As I wandered through the park, I couldn’t help but feel small in the vastness of it all—an overwhelming yet humbling experience.
From there, I made my way to the Yanaka district, a place that feels like a glimpse into old Tokyo. My first stop was the Yanaka Cemetery, where I was struck by the contrast in how the dead are remembered. The tombstones, large and imposing, are often adorned with flowers—yet there are no portraits of the deceased, unlike the custom I’m used to in Europe. It was a poignant reminder of the quiet reverence with which the Japanese approach death and remembrance.
After wandering the cemetery, I spent the afternoon strolling through Yanaka’s narrow lanes, where the atmosphere of ancient Japan lingers. There were no crowds, just a few other nostalgics like me. It felt like I had stumbled into a hidden part of Tokyo, far from the typical tourist path.
Tired from walking, I decided to stop at one of the small, tucked-away cafés that seem like something out of a movie, or a book. It’s not always easy to find them, but patience pays off. The café I found had a charming, old-fashioned decor with just a few tables and a warm atmosphere. I ordered a slice of apple pie, which was as comforting as the atmosphere around me. In that moment, I felt truly connected to the place—and to myself.
The following day, I decided to shake off the jetlag with a jog along the Sumida River, and I quickly discovered that running is a favorite pastime for many locals. As I ran along the riverbank, the view of the iconic Tokyo Skytree never left me, as a reminder that I was indeed in Tokyo, yet a Tokyo I hadn’t known so far. After my jog, I made my way to Asakusa as it’s one of the must-see spots in Tokyo, and therefore a victim of overtourism. So, I quickly look at the sanctuary of Sensoji, and off I went to a more secret sanctuary, the Imado Sanctuary, a quiet place famous for its maneki-neko.
On the other side of the Sumida river as a background to the blooming plum trees along the way, their bright pink and white blossoms colors were a peaceful treat, for me and apparently for a lot of locals walking their dogs. The scenery created a sense of calm before the city’s energy would take over again. And this happened for me as soon as the day started winding down and I decided to head to Ginza. This was when I truly saw the city’s multifaceted nature. As night fell and the neon lights lit up the streets, Ginza transformed into a dazzling display of business and nightlife. It’s funny, though, to go from the peaceful riverside and quiet temple visits to this bustling, glittering district. Tokyo has a remarkable way of shifting from tranquil, natural spaces to the bright lights and fast pace of its commercial core.
Quiet and traditional districts are definitely my favorite places in Tokyo, so yesterday I set out to discover the neighborhoods of Kanda and Jimbocho. I love reading and I love the smell of old books. The district, with its modern building and old bookstores, once again felt like a place where past and present coexist in harmony. Bookstores are specialized in a particular period or theme, giving each one its unique character. Alongside the books, I found beautiful stationery stores, where you can pick up everything you need—or maybe things you didn’t even know you needed. After browsing inside some of them, I stopped for my favorite activity: drinking coffee in a cozy café. And I did find one tucked inside an old bookstore. The café was filled with shelves of vintage books and vinyl records, it was a perfect reflection of the area’s nostalgic atmosphere. Time passes too quickly, but these moments in Tokyo, filled with contrasts of grandeur and simplicity, modernity and tradition are what I will cherish in my heart for a very long time.
